The Joel Wide World (Palm Springs)

PALM SPRINGS, CA

​For so long now, Palm Springs, CA has been cheekily referred to as "The Gay 90's," because, if you live there, you were either gay, 90, or both.
To say it'a changed and that is a dated reference would be doing a huge disservice to the seemingly bulk of the residents who are still, yes, most likely gay, close to 90 or reasonably both.
Yet, on a recent, long trip to the desert, I found out that you can expand the reference to: "The Gay 90's and a bunch of tourists, wacky artists just outside of town, hipster music festival kids and a solid handful or two of open-minded progressive straight folks looking for a good time." This isn't to say that Palm Springs has lost any of it's kitsch. It has, thankfully, done away with the street-cruising Bachannalia of it's pre-Sonny Bono Spring Break days, but don't think it's not a place where the dirtier, sexier side of the city isn't present, it's just hard to see under the always-constant sun or behind the closed doors of trendy hotels' day-drinking parties.
This is not to say it's a constant party, it's just that everybody you come across is simply having a good time. There's a persistent good mood, whether it's the buzz of the morning crowd at any Koffi location, the joy of the quiet mid-day crowd at Sunnylands Estate, the Living Desert zoo or some random colorful hotel pool party, or the slew of nighttime activities ranging from quirky throwback Showgirls Bingo, aged cover bands at Mexican restaurants, fancy martinis at throwback lounges or the strip of tank top-filled patios along Arenas in the gay district.
Everybody is just doing what they enjoy doing in the desert. Assuming they came there regardless of triple degree heat, a high chance of sunburns and with a few bucks to spare.
It's Bachannalian to be sure, it's just more subdued and classy Bachannalia.


I spent a good long time there, so I'd love to put forth some spots I hit. Maybe you have a few of your own to add to the list because, though it seems like a small desert town, it's actually pretty spread out.


The simplest recommendation is to hoof up and down the main downtown strip along Palm Canyon and Indian Canyon. If you like your city visits quick and easy, you can get all manner of Palm Springs just in a few square blocks. Hard Rock Hotel is right there, so you can have your trendy hotel (though you'd probably wanna hang out at the Ace Hotel & Swim Club or Saguaro). You can get your CA cuisine at LuLu's (the newest top hot spot, though I'd rather be at Trio). You can get solid Mexican cuisine at Las Casillas (though give me any smaller mom and pop joint in Cathedral City). You can have a good, though basic, dance crowd at Village Pub, if you don't mind the weirdly always-constant smell of dried upchuck (Though I'd much rather make the trek out to Pappy & Harriet's in Pioneertown for better food, live music and a trendier, maybe too-Hollywood crowd. It's a smallish rustic dive bar turned A-list stop-off haven that has hosted the likes of Paul McCartney, Elton John and the Pixies). You can pop in for Village Fest during the winter months, where downtown turns into booth after booth of food and local artists (though I had a much better time at the Indio Farmer's Market). You can have a burger at the universally praised former Greyhoud busstop-turned-#1 burger joint Tyler's (though my best burger in the Coachella Valley was had at Tony's, an unassuming burger spot in a strip mall in Cathedral City whose El Enfierno burger, with fried habanero, sliced Serrano and ghost pepper cheese blew my mind, and sinuses).
In short, you can do anything and everything you want, and get a feasibly authentic Palm Springs experience just by throwing on some khaki shorts and a Hawaiian shirt (don't worry, everybody wears them, even at the fancier spots) and hoofing it up and down the downtown streets. I don't think you'll miss the Palm Springs experience. However, you can always make it better by going just slightly out of your way. Some highlights:


-- The Aerial Tramway. This is an easy one. It's known for it's tramway. Could be the longest tram in the Western Hemisphere (or some other claim to fame that these structures usually boast, and which no one ever checks on). It's a thrilling ride up the San Jacinto mountains in a tram car that spins 360 degrees as you make you ascend and descend. This is a nice touch, guaranteeing that there are no bad window seats. Eventually you'll see all the way down, and all the way up. It's a beautiful ride to a nice, accommodating lodge with a stunning view of the valley below. Bring some hiking boots and a bottled water and take one of their many trails. I recommend heading off early (the tram opens at 10am) to avoid the heat and any other contact on the trails. What's the point of hiking in the wilderness if you're constantly having to say "hi" to passers-by? It's quiet, beautiful and about 30 degrees colder than the city below. You are removed from any mid-century Palm Springs kitsch and can really get lost up in the woods (don't worry, they have attentive rangers and well-marked paths).


-- Melvyn's. Classic Palm Springs restaurant formally owned by the recently passed-away Melvyn. This is a spot where Frankie and Sammy and virtually anybody else with a street named after them hung out in Palm Springs. Their martinis are crisp and smooth, the decor (though soon to be changed) is classic throw-back Palm Springs, and the dress code tends towards the nicer ("nice" in Palm Springs means pants. And maybe a collared shirt). It's worth a pop-in.


-- The Nest. Ok, this place is hilarious. It was described to me as a cheeky place to watch one-night May-December romances blossom on the dance floor in front of a pretty well-conditioned cover band. I thought: "It can't be that much of a caricature." I'm happy to report, it was undersold. It doesn't just have hints of how it was described, it's only that. The restaurant portion is expensive, expansive, and looked 5-star delicious with a classy seating area to match. Leave that and go to the bar and you'll see a dance floor full of sun-dappled 20-somethings hitting on, or being hit on, more likely, leathery golf-attired gentlemen and faux-tanned, surgery enhanced older women. Without shame. It's amazing to see it so brazen and accepted. No one's creeped out, no moves are out of line, and everybody who steps foot in the door knows the rules. Don't like it? Leave. I eventually did, but not after a solid people-watching session.


-- Art. I'm leaving that as it is. Palm Springs is surrounded by the artistically-minded, whether they're housed in Salton Sea or Pioneertown or Indio, there is art everywhere and it's colorful and thoughtful and well-curated. Sometimes sculptures just stick out when thrust in a city center commissioned by some well-intentioned city council. The art that's prevalent in galleries and on street corners in Palm Springs all just fits. Maybe it enhanced the mid-century architecture or gives you more of a sense of the "Gay 90's" label of the city or maybe it's there to distract from the saltier elements of the city. However you see it, it belongs, and it's rarely wasted or gratuitous. (Special shout-out to the curators and creators of the Desert X art exhibit who implemented large-scale pieces throughout the city. It was the most fun I've had on an art scavenger hunt, tracking down the various GPS coordinates and marveling at what I found).


-- Spurline. An artist friend of mine introduced to this spot on Arenas in the "gay district" and I damn well loved it. He described it as a video bar. I had no idea what that meant. Well, as a straight sports bar might have tons of TV's showing all manner of games, this bar, too, has a slew of flat-screen TV's. However, instead of football or golf, they blast musical numbers. Yes, musicals. I know, it sounded cliche to me, until you realize how much everybody's singing along...and how many you know and are enchanted by. Whether it was "The Sound of Music," a clip from the Tony's, "The Wiz," "EVITA" with Madonna, anything and everything. I'm not a huge fan of musicals, but a number of them were very familiar to me. Besides, the vibe was ecstatic as it's refreshing to see a whole bar watching TV and singing along full-throat to everything that came on the screen and, much like Palm Springs itself, it's hard to be unhappy when you're watching musicals. (No piece too dramatic came on the screen. Sorry "Phantom" lovers)


-- The People. That's what makes the city. Whether retired and living out their happy existence or partying the weekend away or off for a "girl's weekend" (or a "boy's weekend" for that matter), whether they're locals or tourists or any mix of demographics, as I said, everybody just seems happy. I'm guessing most come from or live part-time in Los Angeles, so to be able to have a conversation with an Angeleno that's coherent and non-industry-related is refreshing. Of course, Canadian "Snowbirds" make up a large portion of the population for the winter months, so that surely improves the nice factor. However, as I said, everybody there seems very happy. And why not? They spent their day golfing or napping or day-drinking and are wearing tank tops and shorts at night while they barhop. What's to be mad about?


Look, I've been a number of times for various reasons. This last time I was there I was on a gig for 6 weeks. That's a long time to be there, to be sure, especially when you're as pale as I am and you're just dipping into the triple degree summer weather. However, it was this time I was able to discover some more of the city's charms, delve beneath the facade and discover what seemed to really make the city tick. This was also the first time I felt like a resident and found myself thinking: "If I was only gay or 90...."